Spring time is nearly here. Time for the beach, vacations, family trips down the coast, taking the kids to practice and time for friends and family. As your writing down calendar events you glance out into the lawn you havent seen in a while. Piled high with leaves and sticks. Weeds growing, grass dorment and flower beds in need of some TLC. Put your pen down.You might need to put your gloves on, grab a rake and some bags. This may take a while. Five hours later it looks better but still needing alot more work. Finally three days later you’ve got it all under control. But, the hard part isnt over. You think to yourself What type of fertilizer do I need? Do I need to put down any lime? Maybe I need weed killer or pre-emergents. What ever you do, don’t guess. Make sure you know what the makeup of your soil is. Adding chemicals without knowing could cause more harm than good. A soil test determines your lawns needs.
Lawn maintenance usually requires attentive weed control. One of the most effective ways to control weeds is to apply pre-emergent herbicide, a chemical that prevents unwanted growth from appearing.The big question for pre-emergent weed killers is when to apply them. Pre-emergent herbicides only work if they are applied to your lawn before the weed’s growth period. But if applied too early, weather will dilute the herbicide and the weed will grow unencumbered. According to garden experts from many regions of the U.S., the two dates to remember are March 15 and September 15. Those are the two dates of the year around which pre-emergent fertilizers should be applied so that they activate before seasonal weeds make an appearance. If you use a pre-emergent herbicide, keeping these two dates in mind can help you get a head start in weed control.
If you need any help with any of the lawn need contact us. We are eager to earn your business. We offer a large range of services from tree work, landscaping, maintenance, irrigation, drainage, lot clearing…. Visit our web site for more info and tips or call for a free no obligation consultation.
Additional Tips:::::
Leave clippings on the lawn. Sometimes referred to as “grass-cycling”, this provides nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, water) equivalent to one application of fertilizer. Clippings do not cause thatch. Mulching mowers are also available which help the clippings hide in the grass. For effective grass cycling, wait until the lawn is 3″ tall, then set the mower height to remove 1″. The clippings left on the lawn will quickly disappear from view.
Control lawn weeds with corn gluten.A nontoxic byproduct of corn processing, corn gluten kills weed seedlings within days of application. It also adds nitrogen to your soil. Just one application, before weeds emerge, reduced weed survival by 60%, according to research at Iowa State University. After several years, this method provides as much as 90% weed control. our
Spot-treat’ weeds with vinegar to minimize herbicide use.Where only a few scattered broadleaf weeds such as dandelions or plantain are present, consider spot-treating individual weeds with household vinegar rather than applying a broadcast treatment of an herbicide over the entire lawn. Mix 5 parts white vinegar, 2 parts water, 1 part dish soap, and apply with a hand pump sprayer. (Vinegar can burn grass and garden plants, so be sure to spot treat weeds only.)
Physically pulling or cutting weeds is also effective; remove as much of the root system as possible to reduce the chance of regrowth.
For lawn grubs, there is a natural remedy called milky spore. The granules are spread on the soil and cause the grubs to contract a disease that kills them. Only the grubs are affected, leaving beneficial organisms unharmed. Milky spore multiplies over time and will sit inactive, waiting for grubs to infect. One treatment is said to last 40 years. The grubs are actually the larvae of Japanese beetles. So, when you kill the grubs you kill the beetle.
Hand raking.If the clippings are too long and must be raked, try hand raking. This light aerobic exercise will save you a trip to the gym. If you have fallen leaves to rake, don’t burn them – they make excellent mulch for flower or garden beds, or can be added to your compost pile where they’ll be converted to rich, organic humus for the garden.
Mow Often, but Not Too Short.Giving your lawn a “Marine cut” is not doing it a favor. Surface roots become exposed, the soil dries out faster and surface aeration is reduced. As a general rule, don’t cut off more than one-third of the grass at any one time. Most turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2.5 and 3.5″ tall.
When the lawn is finished growing for the season, cut it a bit shorter to about 2″. This will minimize the risk of mold buildup during winter.
Water Deeply but Not Too Often. Thorough watering encourages your lawn to develop deep root systems which make the lawn hardier and more drought-resistant. Let the lawn dry out before re-watering; as a rule of thumb, the color should dull and footprints should stay compressed for more than a few seconds. When watering, put a cup in the sprinkler zone; it should get at least one inch (2.5cm) water. Most healthy lawns require only 1″ of water per week.
The best time for watering is early morning – less water will be lost to evaporation. Ideally, it’s better to water the first half-inch or so, then wait for an hour or two before watering the second half-inch.
Control Thatch Build-Up.Thatch is the accumulation of above-soil runners, propagated by the grass. This layer should be about 1/2″ ( 1.25cm) on a healthy lawn, and kept in balance by natural decomposition, earthworms and microorganisms. Too much thatch prevents water and nutrients from reaching the grass roots.You can reduce thatch with a steel rake, or by renting a de-thatcher which does a more thorough job.
LAWN CARE QUOTES:
“If we had no winter, the spring would not be so pleasant; if we did not sometimes taste of adversity, prosperity would not be so welcome.”
– Anne Bradstreet
Springtime is the land awakening. The March winds are the morning yawn. ~Quoted by Lewis Grizzard in Kathy Sue Loudermilk
